Self portrait - the artists blinded by his tools.

It’s an oddity of the art world that Thai painters, living in a democratic country where there are very few constraints on expression, seem overwhelmingly stuck in a rut of tried-and-true topics – the Royal Family, Buddhism and rural life. There is plenty of beautifully executed art, but one does wish that more Thai artists would step outside of this envelope more often.

Yet in nearby Vietnam, with its “we’ll tell you how to think” Communist government, there is an ongoing blossoming of very high quality art covering every topic under the sun – apart, perhaps, from discontent with the rulers.

Affinity for fish - one of the nine pieces that make up 'Prayer'.

Fine examples of this high quality art comes from Nguyen Tan Cuong, whose work is now on show at D Gallery in the Royal Phuket Marina, with the collective title “Day Night & Day”.

Nguyen was born in Ho Chi Minh city in 1953, which presumably means that his life was fairly turbulent. This is ignored in the official biography, which mentions only that graduated from Saigon Fine Arts College in 1973, just two years before Saigon fell to the Communist onslaught. It also lists 35 group and solo exhibitions of his work, not only in Vietnam but also in Canada, the US, Italy, Korea and the Philippines.

Works by him hang in collections in the Vietnam National Art Museum, the Ho Chi Minh City Art Museum and in a museum in northern Italy. He is also the winner of eight art prizes in Vietnam. So he’s no slouch at painting.

The artist with D Gallery co-owner Pornthip Raksapiksu and his largest work in the show, 'Memory'. which is made up of 64 panels.

The 20 or so pieces on view at D Gallery range from figurative work to abstract, and from oil on canvas to mixed media, including paint brushes, rags, canvas tool bags and wire brushes. He also appears to have a particular affinity for fish, which appear in many of his works.

Many of the pieces consist of multiple related images – as many as 64 in the case of the largest work on show, Memory, which evokes memories of the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican, but with dolls replacing the angels – or demons.

Meeting him, Nguyen comes across as courteous, cheerful and, let’s say, totally normal. But some of his self-portraits hint at darker depths in his psyche. While his real face is round and pink, he portrays himself as long-faced, skinny and in grey and brown tones. In one mixed-media montage he is apparently blinded by rags and paintbrushes.

Nguyen’s works are built up in painstaking layers, with the result that many appear to glow from within. This is a a consummate artist at the height of his powers. Go and see the exhibition. If you’re thinking of buying, take a fat wallet. Prices range from tens of thousands of baht up to half a million.

This weird penguin-suited character lurks inside a water tank at Nai Harn. The tank was smashed by the 2004 tsunami.

Thai artist Bon describes himself as a street artist – much of his work adorns walls in various parts of Thailand, including Phuket. His work is a long way from the typical manga-inspired street art with complex-bordering-on-unreadable typography.

Bon’s work is colourful, yes, but also original, and slightly unsettling to look at, often featuring masks and distorted faces. We’ll let you judge for yourself from the pix on this page. For more, see his Flickr page.

But whatever darkness lies in this 28-year-old artist’s soul, is balanced by his generous heart. Bon also does work on canvas, some of which will go on show for a month at La Bodega in Patong, with part of the proceeds going to charity. The show’s opening will be on Friday January 22 at 6pm and will be open to all.

"TV Man" - mixed media on canvas.

A charity proceeds will go to the Bodega Project, which is managed by the Phuket Has Been Good To Us Foundation. The project aims to expose local children to the arts by providing art supplies, gallery trips to Phuket Town, concert tickets, music lessons and canvas for painting.

At the opening there will be music provided by DJ K.I.T.T.Y, DJ Daryll, DJ Q Tooth, and live jam sessions with Bodega’s regular musos. Snacks will be provided by Chef Jed.

To get to La Bodega, go south down Rat-U-Thit 200 Pi Rd, past Jungceylon and it’s down the next soi on the left, the one with the Waterworld dive shop on the corner.  Tel 076-602191, Skype bodegaphuket, Facebook. For updates and events, the website is here.

Mickey the Monkey? Jirapat gives Micky Mouse the facial characteristics of Hanuman, the comic monkey god from the Ramakien.

Thailand has always been a sponge, soaking up outside influences. Watch Thai TV any day and and you’ll see ads full of references to Western culture and, to a growing extent, Japanese and Korean influences.

It’s not always a happy relationship – many Thais don’t like what they see as the erosion of Thai traditions – and it can be quite jarring at times, as demonstrated by artist Jirapat Tatsanasomboon, whose work is now on display at D Gallery in the Royal Phuket Marina.

This highly skilled painter, working in acrylics, drops Western cartoon icons such as Spiderman or Bugs Bunny, or Japanese ones such as Doraemon, into traditional Thai settings, setting off reactions that are at both hilarious and thought-provoking.

Doh! Horrified Thais hide as Homer Simpson strides through their ancient town (detail).

Rich in detail, with dozens of subtle cultural hints, each of the paintings offers hours of delight and cerebral stimulation.

Jirapat, who is 38, holds a master’s degree from Silpakorn University in Bangkok, the country’s top art college, and has had wok exhibited in Korea, Hong Kong, the US, Singapore, China and India as well as Thailand. The show at D Gallery will continue until January 31.

See the gallery website for more information.

Detail from one of Kwanchai's intricately detailed bird's eye views of the capital.

Galeria 346, on the corner of Phuket Rd and Kra Rd, has scored an art coup by securing an exhibition of the highly talented 26-year-old Thai artist Kwanchai Lichaikul, from October 24 until the end of January next year.

Kwanchai, who was born in Uttaradit but is based in Bangkok, has put together an exhibition titled Ideal City, featuring intricate paintings and drawings of the capital city, which at first sight are reminiscent of the detail-filled murals to be found in Buddhist temples.

Closer inspection, however, reveals more secular, more disturbing elements – political demonstrations and anti-terrorist training exercises, for example – all taking place among the workaday lives of the people of Bangkok.

The welcoming facade of Phuket346, café, art gallery and very, very small hotel.

Kwanchai says his work is “inspired by today’s society and community, which consists of various people with different ways of life – people live in the uncertainties created by the economy, society, politics, religion, environment and culture, which are all intertwined.”

Society is seen from a bird’s eye view, with groups of people, animals, buildings, houses, roads and other structures presented by Kwanchai as a story, and combined with his own dreams, imagination and personal point of view, to give a vision of a recognisable yet fantastic city.

Galeria 346, which started life in the 1930s as Phuket’s first ice shop, is today a café and art gallery downstairs with three cosy guest bedrooms above. For more on the place, go here.

Barman P'Rah in his kingdom.

You’d have to wonder why anyone in their right mind would decide to open a bar on an island that already has about 14 million of them, most of which last as long as it takes to set light to the money invested in them.

But Bodega, the new kid in Patong, is packing them in – and without a bar girl, flower girl or gibbon-handler in sight. Not so far, anyway.

It’s run by a delightful (and, it has to be said, unfairly good-looking) couple, Robbie and Amy. Both are originally from the UK but could accurately be described as world citizens. They met in South Africa, where she was in advertising and he ran Cape Town Backpackers, voted best hostel in Africa for two years running.

They were married on a beach on Koh Samui last year and moved to Phuket in May this year. Instead of spending the usual three or four years slugging back beers while adjusting to the place, they promptly started setting up La Bodega which, actually, is a lot more than a bar. It might be described as a sort of a mini-Montmartre with a Thai-Spanish flavour and jelly vodka shots. If that makes any sense.

Singing for his supper - it's open mic night every Friday.

In any case, art is definitely a focus. Amy says, “Bodega is different because the vision is to showcase authentic original local talent. We were amazed, after moving here, how much talent there is on the island and how so many people want exposure and a place to freely express themselves.

“We also know, as ex-travellers to the region, how much tourists want to see this talent but have no idea where to find it. People come to Patong to party and have fun, but they also want something a little different from the experience.

The girls get with the groove. The beers help.

“The focus for us right now is to get known as a place where anyone can come and display art, play music, sing, rap, DJ, breakdance, read poetry, mime – whatever you want. We believe that if we attract the talent, the interest will come and Patong will have a place to visit for something local, original, and a little bit different.We want to be known as a place that always has something interesting happening. We want to showcase talent, simple as that.”

Apart from the art and that central essential – the bar – Bodega has bright, clean rooms to let at prices ranging from B700 a night during the “summer” season to B2,000 a night over the Christmas/New Year period. All rooms have king-size beds, free wi-fi and cable TV.

On the third floor you’ll find the Sino Tattoo Studio featuring artist-in-residence Mint, who’s prepared to brand you permanently with his own designs or yours. Surprising and original paintings by three Thai artists adorn the walls of the bar, and are for sale.

Yen of Mour Tour delivers another upbeat song.

The place attracts an eclectic mix of foreigners, young and old, and funky artistic Thais. The local hip-hop crew, South Side, are regulars in Bodega (there are turntables at one end of the bar – whoopa whoopa), and there’s the house band – the Thai Gypsy guitar group Mour Tour, featuring four guitars and a bongo (yes, one), whose joyful, upbeat songs are a great aid to chugging beers. Guitar-toting hotel guests are persuaded to play/sing, and on Fridays it’s open mic night.

Let’s not forget the food and drink. “Kick-arse breakfast” (says Robbie), Thai and international dishes for lunch and supper. Cakes. Fruit smoothies. Excellent coffee and wines to match.  Plus beers, spirits and cocktails, of course

Robbie and Amy also believe in giving back to the community, and are getting ready to launch what they call The Bodega Project. Amy explains, “The idea is that a portion of all profits from the sale of a piece of art or a tattoo will go into a fund to set up art sessions with Thai kids who want to draw, sing or play an instrument.

“The lead singer of Mour Tour, Yen, has said he would love to teach music to young students who wouldn’t otherwise have the opportunity. Our displaying artists (Amnat, Wimmon and Suriya) feel the same way about painting. We have yet to launch the project and will keep you posted.

“We also have started a Bodega Man project, with wooden painted dolls [they are kept in a birdcage above the bar] which we want children and artists to paint in any way they want. We will auction them and sell them to tourists to raise funds and raise awareness about harnessing talent on the island.”

What? Us worry? Robbie and Amy.

Meanwhile, the atmosphere at the bar and on the “verandah” that juts out into the soi is “What? Me worry?” or maybe “Don’t worry – be happy.” The crew at Bodega, led by head chef and master of entertainment Jed, and the excellent barman P’rah, are experienced party-makers. At one stage during the Observer‘s visit (we seem to recall) trays of jelly vodka shots were doing the rounds. Lots of trays.

Amy giggles. (Actually,  most of us are all giggling by this time.) “Not sure about the jelly shots, those were too funny. We had no idea what the chef was up to!” she says.

La Bodega is easy enough to find. Head down Rat-U-Thit 200 Pi Rd, go past Jungceylon and it’s down the next soi on the left, the one with the Waterworld dive shop on the corner.  Tel 076-602191, Skype bodegaphuket. For updates and events, the website is here.

La Bodega opens at 8am for breakfast and currently closes at midnight. There are plans to be open eventually around the clock.

The open-air restaurant is full of John Underwood's art.

There are plenty of restaurants in Phuket with views. But a restaurant with a view of a factory? Would we recommend this? Actually, we would, because this is an unusual factory – it’s John Underwood’s Art Factory on the bypass road, where John recently opened a quirky eatery for all.

The menu is simple, and the food – produced in an open kitchen – is excellent. The small menu of 15 items is all Asian but with a good variety; items include Thai-style seafood salad, lemongrass salad, chicken in coconut milk with galangal, sukiyaki, various stir-fried dishes, fried rice with pork, chicken or seafood.

Prices are very reasonable, ranging from 45 to 150 baht. To wash it all down there’s a variety of hot or cold drinks, beer or wine.

Blue elephants and tin siding. Note the hand next to the elephant on the right. It was retrieved from a rubber glove factory.

Surrounding diners is an eclectic – eccentric, even – collection of Underwood artifacts. The chairs come in a variety of shapes and colours and there are “distressed”-looking tables. One has a top made from an old tin Coca-Cola sign. Another has a top made from strips of another Coke sign, woven together.

The centrepiece is a full-size pool table, rehabilitated with a top made from parquet flooring. Above it hangs an extraordinary chandelier – sort of Victorian, sort of art deco, entirely Underwood. Just outside the open-sided restaurant are bizarre and amusing statues made from junk metal and old bits of wood.

Just about everything you can see in and around the restaurant is made from bits of something else – John has a personal mission to re-use, rehabilitate and recycle whenever he can.

“The thing about recycling,” he explains, “is the perception of beauty; the best way to achieve luxury is to change the perception of beauty. For me a tent can be as beautiful as a marble villa. The beauty’s already there in the object.”

At the back of the restaurant is a glass wall, through which you look down on the factory floor below. Showers of sparks fly from grinders, flashes of blinding brilliance flare from welders. Everywhere someone is filing, cutting or assembling arcane kits of bits that will, when finished, adorn a five-star resort or a beautiful holiday home.

The factory floor.

To see other examples of John’s unique work, take a wander around the Indigo Pearl Resort at Nai Yang Beach, and especially have a drink in the Tongkah Tin Syndicate bar, or dine at Hung Fat restaurant in Kalim, designed and built by the man. Other places on Phuket that feature his work include the JW Marriott, Dewa Resort and the Mövenpick in Karon.

So why a restaurant? “We already have a showroom-cum-fine art gallery, and I want to make it a centre for fine arts [already, the Phuket Writers Bloc meets there] so it seemed a good idea to have a restaurant as well, where people could meet or could pick up a magazine and have a cup of coffee or something to eat.”

Underwood Art is on the east side of the Phuket Town bypass road, just over 2 kilometres from the Koh Kaew intersection. The website is here. Look for a building with walls decorated with hundreds of old bits of tin roofing.

Each bowl created by Nino Sarabutra is different.

&Joy! Creative Lifestyle Boutique and Gallery, which soft-opened just a month ago not far from Laguna, will open its first exhibition, “Exploring Love” by Thai artist Nino Sarabutra on April 17.

Exploring Love is a wall installation of heart-shape stoneware bowls. Each is hand-made, as the artist (who, when she’s not pottering about, is a successful advertising creative director) explains, “In working with these bowls, I keep exploring,” she says. “It’s just like love. I never knew how each one would turn out. Every bowl was different; different clay, different glaze, different temperature, different degrees of care and attention.

“Sometimes the clay was too much, too little, too thin, too thick, too stubborn, too soft. Sometimes I was too quick, or too ponderous. So many times I failed, so often I wanted to give up; as with love. Even when you are quite certain that it is right you can still be wrong. Often I expected one thing, but got another – a pleasant surprise.”

If I am careless with the bowls I can easily break them, drop them or create defects. If I am too careful I don’t get any fun out of them. They pull me down, they lift me up and they keep me going.”

I love exploring new resources and materials. There is no need to always use something modern. I love experimenting with things around me, something that’s already there but never tried before, such as wood ash from my mother’s stove; it gave me golden brown glaze.

Figurine by Winai Chaso.

One of Kai Kingsley's black and white paintings, to be showcased in "Faces".

“So now my Mum is collecting wood ash for me even though she rarely uses a charcoal stove these days. Imagine Mum collecting ash day in day out for months before posting it to me. It’s not only the outcome that matters for me – equally, the process needs to be warm and full of love.”

The gallery – which is the personal project of Dominique Rongé, Assistant Manager of The Chedi resort – has already scheduled two more exhibitions. The first, “People of the Hills”, opening May 23, will showcase  ceramic figurines created by Chiang Rai artist Winai Chaso. The second, “Faces”, will open a month later. It will consist of paintings by Kai Kingsley III.

The gallery is on the right side of Srisoonthorn Rd, just to the west of Baan Manik, and about halfway between the Heroines Monument and Cherng Talay (see map below). For more information contact Dominique at dominiqueronge@hotmail.com or see the website.

Off the wall? Hardly. Left field? Yes. One of the works by d.e.a. on show at Gallery 346.

Street art – the kind that evolved from graffiti in France in the 1940s, is now a worldwide phenomenon. In Thailand, unlike, say, New York, street artists are polite, generally civic-minded people. True, what they do is, strictly speaking, illegal. But they don’t spray-paint buses or trains, or the windows of banks. Their work appears exclusively on walls no one seems to want – where a building is being demolished, art will mushroom overnight. Abandoned, crumbling structures similarly get the midnight treatment.

Much of the street artists’ work that appears in Phuket (indeed, Thailand as a whole) is derivative – the angular, spiky text, for example. These days, young Thais tend to take their cultural cues from Tokyo. The days of American cultural domination are long gone, so the artists’ work also contain references to manga – Japanese comic books. And there are also, naturally, Thai motifs. Much of the art also has connections to Thailand’s lively hip-hop scene.

Although Thailand has yet to see work as outstandingly original as that of Banksy, Swoon or Neck Face, there is still some interesting art out there for all to see.

Just as elsewhere, the energy and talent of some of the top graffiti artists has attracted buyers and patrons and has moved the art from the street into art galleries. One such exhibition has just opened at Gallery 346 in Phuket Town, showcasing work by d.e.a., aka Kitja Yamunsabedin, and TG, aka TorLarb Intararuensorn.

Sophisticated typography by TG.

Both did their time on the street, starting in 1994 in the same “crew”. But in the intervening 15 years they have received corporate recognition, with their work appearing in competitions organised by the likes of the MBK Center in Bangkok, Singha Soda and Red Bull, and even at the highly respectable Chulalongkorn University, the country’s equivalent of Oxford or Harvard.

Gallery 346 is at the intersection of Phuket Road and Kra Road in Phuket Town, not far from the Robinson department store. Apart from the gallery, the building also contains a café and three basic but cheerfully comfortable guest rooms.

The exhibition continues until mid-June and is open to all.