Seriously French gourmandising at the Boathouse
Chef Lumineau - the only Maitre Cuisinier in Thailand.
Jean-Noel Lumineau presented his first French food festival at Mom Tri’s Boathouse in Kata nine years ago – two weeks of the very best French food in the world.
He came back every year to do the same thing and, in September 2008, made the big jump, moving to Phuket as Chef Consultant for Mom Tri’s four restaurants – the Boathouse, the Oasis next door, Mom Tri’s Kitchen (all in Kata) and, the most recent addition, Mom Tri’s Regatta at the Royal Phuket Marina.
This was really quite a catch for Mom Tri; Lumineau has won Michelin stars for restaurants in France, and toques from Gault-Millau. He is one of just 300 or so Maîtres-Cuisiniers de France – the crème de la crème – and he’s the only one working in Thailand.
So getting fed by this man is really rather special. But you’ll need to be quick; this year’s Boathouse French festival lasts just two weeks, ending on March 21.
There are three menus, the “Les Châteaux” and the “Les Vignes” version, each of three courses chosen from a total of six, and a degustation version, four courses with a glass of carefully matched wine to go with each.
So you can imagine how delighted Phuket Observer was to be invited to sit down to the Châteaux menu on the terrace at the Boathouse, with a fine sunset and cool breeze ordered up specially.
Chef Lumineau explains that he finds many of the local ingredients, especially the sea food, fresh and tasty, though certain ingredients still have to be imported for authenticity – the truffles for example, and the cèpe (or porcini) mushrooms.
The choice of appetisers is between a crab salad with fresh tarragon and Orleans white wine vinegar sauce with aspargus, or duck liver with stewed pears. My vote goes to the duck liver, smooth and rich. More toast please. My partner, however, likes the crab better, and I can’t disagree, especially when the shell is nowhere in sight (one of my pet peeves: battling through a crab shell is, frankly, too much work for too little reward).
This loin is really, really tender.
The next choice: Sautéed fillet of seabass with virgin sauce or Grilled Angus beef tenderloin, with black truffle slices, cèpe mushrooms, garlic and parsley. Neither of us being virgins, we both order the steak.
Oh yes. The real thing. This loin is supremely tender, and is deliciously offset by the truffle slices and the textures of the mushrooms.
Finally, dessert. My grandmother used to say, “Life is short, so eat the dessert first.” But I’m glad I waited. The choice here is between Millefeuille with caramel mousse and mocha coulis, or Cremet d’Anjou, a soft white cheese, with red forest fruit sauce.
We get one of each. At the time I can’t make up my mind which is better. I still can’t. I may have to go back again.
For all three menus, see here. For bookings, email or call +66 (0) 76 330 015.
