Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival – bizarre but unmissable
Pretty in pink - some of the Mah Song are women. © Alasdair Forbes
It’s nearly that time of year again, when hundreds of Chinese gods and goddesses are invited down from heaven to occupy the bodies of ordinary mortals – the Mah Song, or mounts of the gods – for the annual Phuket Vegetarian Festival.
This year’s festival runs from October 17 to 27, with processions from the main shrines winding their way around various parts of the island, a bizarre yet strangely compelling affair with the Mah Song jittering along the streets, their cheeks and sometimes other parts of their bodies pierced with a bewildering assortment of objects, ranging from decorated skewers to motorbike wheels, flagpoles (complete with flags), shovels, and much more. Some show their devotion by slicing their tongues with swords or daggers. This is not a celebration for the squeamish.
It is said that the self-inflicted injuries heal at remarkable speed and leave no scars.
It’s also very noisy, particularly around the shrines, with drums and hundreds – thousands – of firecrackers being set off to drive away evil spirits and celebrate the presence of the gods. Brilliantly coloured flags and embroidered costumes disappear and reappear from the dense clouds of smoke from the firecrackers and from aromatic incense sticks. It’s a stunning sensory feast.
In the evenings more believers test their faith at the shrines – or San Jao – by firewalking, climbing ladders made of sharp blades – barefoot – or pouring boiling oil on themselves. It’s said no one is ever injured.
The festival begins on the 17th with the raising of lantern poles at the island’s nine main shrines. It is down these poles that the gods will descend to earth.
A shovel put to unusual use. © Alasdair Forbes
Ornate ceremonies to propitiate the gods and make offerings of food to them occupy the following three days, often starting before dawn.
The first shrine to stage its procession this year will be Sam Kong, on the east side of Phuket Town, starting at 07:19 on the 21st. Processions from the other shrines start at varying times (all calculated to be the most propitious) during the following days.
On the 26th, ceremonies are held to say farewell to the gods until the following year and then, on the 27th, the lantern poles are lowered and dismantled, signalling the end of the festival.
Throughout the festival believers – not just the Mah Song – adhere to a strict vegetarian diet. This is not as difficult as it may sound to the carnivores among us; food stalls set up around the shrines offer a stunning array of delicious foods, all of it veggy.
For those who want to join in whole-heartedly, there are other rules, too, which may be seen at the official website, here. Bring your camera. The gods often seem to be strangely attached to having their photo taken. And bring an umbrella – October in Phuket can bring with it weather that Noah would recognise.
